Fanatec Game Gear

gud 0l stoner wrote:how are you guys finding the standard clamp?, seen plenty of reviews on these complainig they move to much, mine doent move at all, clamped on the side of a table, table moves before wheel thats for sure?

Hi stoner,

Even though I was using a really dodgey "test" setup the clamp still didn't slip in the hour or so I was using it. But I'll be bolting the wheel down in my permanent rig, eventually.

The clamp is ok. But the wheel moved when I changed shifters. How tight are the shifter support struts to get into the wheel.
But I also will be bolting it to my rig. I need to borrow a few tools seeing my drill crapped itself and refuses to work.
How long do we need to get the 6 mm bolts? I've got to go through 25mm of pint before the bolts hit the wheel.

crimson eagle73 wrote:The clamp is ok. But the wheel moved when I changed shifters.

How long do we need to get the 10 mill bolts? I've got to go through 25mm of pint before the bolts hit the wheel.

CE, is there much flex in the shifter support rods when you get into it?

As for the mounting bolts, if you're talking about mounting the wheel I'm pretty sure you need 6mm bolts not 10mm.

A way to check bolt length would be to take a bolt and screw it into the base of the wheel. Measure how far you can screw it in without bottoming out. If you can insert the screw about 6-8mm I wouldn't worry about going any deeper. There are some short 6mm bolts in the clubsport pedal kit - you could check using one of them.
Just add the amount you can insert to the thickness of the board you'll be bolting it to. Remember to allow extra for the thickness of the rubber washers under the wheel base and any washers you might intend to use between the board and the head of the bolt.
I'd guess at about a 30-40mm bolt if you're using a 25mm pine board.

OK after a lot of work I now have the GT2 mounted on the Fanatec Rensport Stand. Not a difficult job, just lots to do, when all I want to do is play with it.

Anyway, here is a picture of my setup.

My Initial thoughts...

My PB for Mugello is 1:48.2 and after about 2 hours of playing I have got down to 1:52.0. I have lost count on the number of gearboxes destroyed. LOL

I first started out using the H pattern shifter, this had some advantages and some disadvantages. + I can go from 5th to 3rd in one move, I have found this pretty useful in heavy braking areas. - and this was the killer for me, the mounting position for the shifter is bad for me, I hit my knee on it all the time, if fact I am so concious of the cable coming out from the bottom I found myself very uncomforable, and was getting a sore knee after only a short time. I tried the shifter on the right, and while this was much easier on everything it just felt wierd, sorry to the US members of the forum.

SO ... off came the shifter and supporting rod, and back to using the paddles. so now I have myself more comfortable, I am sure it will just be a matter of practice and the times will continue to drop.

One thing I did notice while setting up the pedals, if you have the clutch button on the B button, the clutch on the floor does not work. So I set the config back to defaults, and the clutch pedal now works. Took me a while to work that one out.

I have all the setting on the wheel as they came default for now, I will continue to practice and tune the setup tomorrow night.

Dazza looking at your pics above, I noticed you didn't have attached the steel rectangular metal plate that actually sits behind and under the initial part of the shifters. This gives much more support and stability for the shifters when attached.
Just a hint incase you decide to reattach the shifters in the future due to using a different height seating postition or something.

Thanks Arcon, I just found this morning some videos regarding the setups etc, and there is one there on the wheel stand. I thought those extra bits were for some other wheel as the GT2 has those alloy rods that go through the wheel's base.

Now I will try this setup tonight. I have put the bits together, and held it up to the wheel, and it does look like it makes the shifter sit a little higher, and closer to me, so I hope my leg now clears it.

Link to Youtube Videos

On a side note...

My wife thinks it is a total waste of money, because the horn does not work.... I'll give her a working horn!

I have just noticed something. If you push the chopsticks to half way on either side and mount the shifter using the small cable, then the whole setup is a lot more stable and the cable does not ever get in the way and there is plenty of room on either side of the wheel for the shifter not to get in the way when you're turning the wheel.

BTW I hard mounted the wheel using M6 40mm bolts (this going through 20mm pine) Each bolt goes in about 15mm into the wheel. I'm happy with that setup.

Well after watching the videos, and Arckon's comments, I have remounted the H pattern shifter, and lifted the whole wheel up a bit. It seems to be clearing my leg now so I will go have a play soon, and see how it goes. It really needs the plug to go out the front of the shifter, I think it is a poor design to go straight out the bottom. Maybe a right angled PS/2 plug would do it.

night 2 of testing.

I dug out the tune I used for the 1:48.2 at mugello so I could compare apples. All be it now in the commodore instead of the falcon I did my PB in (dont tell Reapr).

AFter moving the shifter and wheel up a bit, and mounting it using the extra brackets I got with the wheel stand I have to say that shifter is awsome. 6th gear down the straight, hit the brakes, and shift straight back to 3rd is the best ever.

I have also modified the Acc pedal, I have taken out the block between the pedal plate and the actual pedal (like in the video) which puts the pedal about 40mm lower than the brake pedal, heal and toe is perfect for me there. The situation at the end of the straight is now, 6th gear flat to the brake marker, then hard on the brakes untill it vibrates, clutch and back to 3rd with a blip on the throttle... nice feeling. That car pulls up very quickly.

As for times, I am now getting low 1:50s consistantly. I think with this setup the gear box setup is going to be the make or break on the lap times. I am still having some issues going from 4th to 5th across the gate, but I am sure a bit more pratice will help there.

CE, the wheel stand has a set of chop stiks about 6 inches long and made out of cast. that shifter does not move. Whats the short cable, I can not find of themin the gear anywhere?

More testing tomorrow night.

Dazz

Dazza4610 wrote:Whats the short cable, I can not find of themin the gear anywhere?
Dazz

Dazz check inside all the hollow cardboard packing bits that were in the boxes, there's stuff tucked away in couple of them. You should find a PS2 cable about 150mm long in one of them.

Found it, I must have got it from the cardboard, but then put it in the box with all the other bits and pieces left over... Must have had a bloke look the first time.

Dazza4610 wrote:night 2 of testing.


I have also modified the Acc pedal, I have taken out the block between the pedal plate and the actual pedal (like in the video) which puts the pedal about 40mm lower than the brake pedal, heal and toe is perfect for me there.


CE, the wheel stand has a set of chop stiks about 6 inches long and made out of cast. that shifter does not move. Whats the short cable, I can not find of themin the gear anywhere?



Dazz

You already found the small ps2 cable. Trouble is it's too short for anything but mounting the shifter beside the wheel. I don't really mind it there though. The closer the shifter is to whatever is supporting the mounts on either wheel or stand, the more sturdy it will be.
Hay Daz. I'm thinking about making the same mod on the clubsports. Did you ever get around to shifting the plate on the brake pedal closer to the accelerator pedal?
Where is the vid that shows you how to do it properly. Might be good to share a link here for anyone else who wants to take a gander.
The other thing I was thinking is that you could either clip or tape the cables to the frame of your stand to stop it getting in the way. I'm thinking of doing that to my home made job.

I use a low chair and found it uncomfortable to make full pedal travel with the pedals flat on the floor. know I could tilt the base forward to fix that, but I'd like to keep the pedals flat on the floor because its a solid footing. So I'm thinking about fitting a thicker spacer behind the brake and clutch pedals to bring them more vertical. Probably double the existing spacers.
That'll also give better pedal alignment for heel/toe as you've done by removing the one behind the accelerator Dazza.

The fanatec vid about adjusting and looking after the CS pedals is Here
Added the link to the OP as well.

crimson eagle73 wrote:

Dazza4610 wrote:night 2 of testing.


I have also modified the Acc pedal, I have taken out the block between the pedal plate and the actual pedal (like in the video) which puts the pedal about 40mm lower than the brake pedal, heal and toe is perfect for me there.


CE, the wheel stand has a set of chop stiks about 6 inches long and made out of cast. that shifter does not move. Whats the short cable, I can not find of themin the gear anywhere?



Dazz

You already found the small ps2 cable. Trouble is it's too short for anything but mounting the shifter beside the wheel. I don't really mind it there though. The closer the shifter is to whatever is supporting the mounts on either wheel or stand, the more sturdy it will be.
Hay Daz. I'm thinking about making the same mod on the clubsports. Did you ever get around to shifting the plate on the brake pedal closer to the accelerator pedal?
Where is the vid that shows you how to do it properly. Might be good to share a link here for anyone else who wants to take a gander.
The other thing I was thinking is that you could either clip or tape the cables to the frame of your stand to stop it getting in the way. I'm thinking of doing that to my home made job.

Up further I posted a link to youtube, where there are a few videos. The one wolf has given is a direct link to the one you need.

I have wrapped the cables around the upright, then fed the power down the center on the floor. It seems to be ok, and out of harms way.

first thig i did with pedals, clutch moved far left, brake pad up seems to give me better room

Bone Head move #1. Do not take the shifter support sticks out of the wheel without first unplugging the small cable. Small cable now in the garbage lol. At least I didn't damage the shifter or wheel.

In the video, he's using a computer program to change the brake sensitivity. I've connected the CSP to the PC via USB. Now I need the program to adjust the brake. Any idea where I can find it? Searched everywhere.

Don't worry. I found it. It's great to tune it. as standard the brakes need to be adjusted with the knob I suggest everyone does it.

Do you have the link CE?

Fanatec Download Page

Download either the 32 bit version or 64 bit version depending on your windows. Run the setup. Plug the CSP via usb. Run the program from DT. Select the pedals and tune to your hearts content. After doing this I found that when I first hooked the pedals up, I was pushing hard on the pedals but it only registered as half the signal. After adjusting, the brakes respond much much quicker with little lockup.

I now have made some more changes, and each time it just gets better and better.

I have found (thanks to Reapr) the controler setting in game need to be adjusted. I have set the Brake inside dead spot to zero, as well as the clutch and Acc to zero. This now means by just touching the brake, acc, clutch I get a reaction in the game, and also gives me much more travel with each pedal. The acc out of the corners is much more controlled, the brakes actually do something now without getting offr the chair and almost standing on the pedal, and the clutch... I love the clutch, I can control the braking withthe clutch by slowly releasing as I enter the braking zone. This means I practically have a diferent brake setup for each corner... it is almost like cheating as there is no clutch damage that I can find.

I have also been playing with the sen and lin settings, and found sen 180, and lin 40 is inproving my turn in to the apexes, something I always struggled with using the MS wheel.

The more I adjust this setup to my likeing the lap times are coming down. Mugello, I am in the consistant 1:49s now, so with a bit more playing and adjusting I will get to my PB.

Oh, and adjusting the dead zones in game, I am not destroying as many gearboxes.

Still strugling with the change from 4th to 5th across the gate, I need the shifter out of an old Datsun 180B. I guess it will get a bit looser as it wears in.

I agree with you Dazza. Now I'm used to the clutch. I never miss a shift. I'm pretty close to my pb's with the s class and above, but I ran in D the other day and within five minutes knocked 3 seconds off my best catalunya time. 3 seconds is an eternity in d class. I recommend getting the fanatec setup for anyone serious or semi serious about racing on the xbox. Nothing compares.

awww you guys are making me so jealous! Just can't justify the cash at the moment (though I did just get a second job, so might be able to at some stage).

Nice one!

Chris

These things are worth taking a loan out for.

crimson eagle73 wrote:These things are worth taking a loan out for.

I am not sure I would do that... but in saying that I guess I did put it on my credit card.

OD,
Just aim for getting one for Fortza 4, and use the time to save up mate. Bit over 4 months to go. The only problem I can see with that is, will Pagnain still have some by then. Maybe he will let you layby one, he is very quick to reply to emails, ask him.

I have taken the next step in acceptance. The MS wheel is all packed back up in the original box and put in the garage for a rainy day. Not for sale at this stage.