What wheel are you using ? and settings for PCars

What wheel are you using ? and settings for PCars

Looks like if I get this game I may as well get a wheel also.

Just after some feedback

Logitech G27 + Max Race v.4 xbox one adaptor

MaxRace - http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261374016212

G27 - http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=161691650284

I've been fairly happy with the thrustmeister, but as its the first wheel I've owned, noting to compare to really.... Bit disappointed with overall build quality - I gave the B button a thumping when it was the clutch, and now its a bit sticky - not a problem anymore with the Fanatec pedals though. If I was thinking about a new wheel right now, I'd be very tempted to wait for the Fanatec offering

Fanatec GT2, i'm actually just using the defaults and have no real complaints so far. Still reading up on what the different FFB effects do but its working out of the box for me at the moment.

Likewise, havnt changed any setting from our of box as far as game settings, yet! I have set the Sen to off on the wheel (GT2) and allowing the game set the wheel rotation via the calibration setup. Other than that all standard.

Very impressed with the pedals in the game, the brake feel, for me is far better than anything I've prev used.

Couple of things, I could only find support for "Fanatec Turbo Gt2" wheel which there isn't such a wheel as far as I know, the turbo was a older model than the GT2 wheel, the pic isn't the gt2 wheel either. Saying that I have had some problems with having no gear selection, neither the paddles nor the shifter selects a gear, frustrating ATM sitting on the grid with no gears! Assuming that it's a game issue as the wheel works fine with the fanatec control panel.

RU

I think thats just a naming convention, it recognizes the wheel just fine. Try going into the keybindings tab and quickly rebind your gear up and gear down buttons. Should work.

Yes, I think ur right envy with the naming of the wheel.

My gear selection, well that was my dumb, being honest. Sitting on the grid, opossed to rolling start. I'd didn't engage the clutch, hence no gear selection. I know I know, but 125 karts don't have a clutch, well didn't when I raced the back in the 80's. So I didn't use it, lol.

Anyone else getting little, actually no rumble or vibration in the karts. Othe than that I luv the feel of the karts, right down the out of focus effect, just reminds me of the old racing days comming out of a corner foot to the floor, head shaking around trying to focus up the road. Luv it.

RU

For those with a Thrustmaster TX One (or another type of) wheel, and struggling to understand all of the FFB limbo, I have came across this, a detailed explanation from Darin Gangi of Inside Sim Racing.

-------------------
PROJECT CARS
 
In Game (Global) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On
 
Tire Force – the percentage of tire-related forces used to influence FFB calculations.
 
Wheel Position Smoothing – the rate of change of an object and the axis about which the object is rotating.
 
Linkage Scale – simulates that the wheel is driven by a non-rigid linkage, namely the driver's arms, as well as play in mass in the linkage itself. Stiffness and damping of that linkage can be controlled here.
 
Relative Adjust – represents torque to the wheel based on the change in torque over time rather than being absolute torque.
 
Relative Adjust Bleed – a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in whereas Relative Adjust Clamp is the value around which this effect operates. 1.0 is a good starting point.
 
Scoops – decreases low forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force.
 
Scoop Knee – the force level where the force changes from shallow to steep.
 
Scoop Reduction – refers to the input reduction below the knee. Above the knee the force slope is increased such that, at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0.
 
Soft Clipping – compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. The Half Input setting is the signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal with 0.0 turning it off.
 
Full Output – setting that determines the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0. This means force above this setting will again clip.
 
Per Car (in the garage for each car) Wheel Settings for TX Italia with Ferrari GTE Wheel Add-On
 
General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.
 
Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.
 
The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).
 
 
Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.
 
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.
 
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
 
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
 
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.
 
So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).
 
 
 
___________________________
 
 
Notes:
4/16/15
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
 
Or: UPDATE
actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.
 
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
 
Then finally remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
 
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
 
Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100
 
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
 
Finally one of the most important and one of the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
 
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
 
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
 
5/6/15
1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want.
 
 
2) Also make sure to experiment with the car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21.
 
I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this:
 
Fx = 80
Fy = 50 to 70 range
Fz = 60 to 70 range
Mz = 100 to 110 range
 
Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB)
 
 
5/7/15
By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again: one of the most important FFB settings is Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.
 
Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still   ):
 
Spindle Master Scale = 36
Fx = 100
Fy = 60
Fz = 60
Mz = 110
Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).
 
Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.
 
bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com
 
 
5/7/15
guys its easy....
 
I have a t300 GTE.
 
Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims)
 
I also set in Wheel Pcars menu
FFB 100
Dampening 15
Tyre Force 100
 
Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.
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Written by Darin Gangi from Inside Sim Racing - isrtv.com

This is good stuff, cheers.

thxs mitch

there is a lot of chat about FFB setting on the Official PCars forum, I'm reading this one atm,

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

all good fun!, got a day off today, going to get stuck into some testing and reconfiguring

RU

Im using the Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider wheel and pedals. Although it doesnt have force feedback it still works really well on Project Cars. The pedals however are rather sensitive making not alot of difference from no throttle to full throttle so its abit hard to throttle control. However i havent messed around with the ingame settings for it so you could possibly fix that.

Yeah i just installed those FFB tweaker files from Jack Spade, the SOP ones because you need to know whats going on at the rear axle in a sim, and goddamn the FFB feels sooooooo much better. Since they take over all the individual car settings, you just need to edit the controller settings to make sure your sensitivities and deadzones are correct and off you go.