Strange Fanatec clutch Wheel issue.

I have the GT2 and I've noticed something. If I start forza while the wheel is on and synced to the first quadrant, strange things happen. The clutch doesn't work sometimes or get stuck on. Then you have to shift up/down to get it to work again, thus losing time and sometimes putting you off the road and onto the grass as I often use the engine to help slow the car.

If I start forza via voice command and then press the connect button to sync the GT2, I have absolutely no issue.
Anyone else experience this?

I have the same problem with my brake pedal,i have the 911 turbo S with CSR Elite Pedals,got me stumped!

crimson eagle73 wrote:I have the GT2 and I've noticed something. If I start forza while the wheel is on and synced to the first quadrant, strange things happen. The clutch doesn't work sometimes or get stuck on. Then you have to shift up/down to get it to work again, thus losing time and sometimes putting you off the road and onto the grass as I often use the engine to help slow the car.

If I start forza via voice command and then press the connect button to sync the GT2, I have absolutely no issue.
Anyone else experience this?

I usually start the game with the controller and switch to the wheel in game.
I also switch back and forward between wheel and controller in game and haven't noticed it causing any problems.

But I started the game with the GT2 wheel synched last night and had problems with clutch damage while racing (meaning my clutch wasn't working properly) Sounds a bit similar to your problem.

I've heard friends talk about similar problems, I think the general consensus was to turn the wheel on after the game had loaded.

Iv suddenly had an issue come up with my clutch also. While playing in test drive I dipped the clutch to grab another gear let the clutch out, and rev rev no drive. Brought up the telemetry and sure enough the clutch was disengaged while my pedal was in the engaged position. This now happens every time I press the clutch. I have to restart the wheel and use the a button for the clutch and refrain from pressing the pedal.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

Is it only a little bit not engaged in the Telemetry?

I had an issue where I wasn't getting full clutch engagement so I extended my deadzones issue stopped. This only started happening mid this year... during the last V8's actually.

Have had similar issues with my clubsport pedals, gt2 wheel, eventually found the problem and was the magnetised rod that's in the clutch pedal itself with the grub screw in it, adjusting it cured all problems(do this in pc mode and adjust so as to get correct deadzones for pedal movement), also of note the pad that sends the digital clutch movement on the base of pedals can get dirty and therefore does not send correct signals on clutch movement and where it is, even a hair can cause this problem, simple fix, clean it and adjust rod on pedal if needed, note if adjusting the throw of pedal the rod needs adjusting so as not to much on or to much of and only half engaging if that is happening ect ect.

i had same a while back, just disconnected the small connections from all wheel to pedal plugs with some CRC or INOX or WD40 and she drove like a new one ever since.
ive not had any probs ever with my clubsport pedals, just double check everything is connected 100% see how you go

Cool beans I'll have a look at it tonight.

Ive had trouble with my CSR Elite brake pedal  Sometimes doesnt work and gets stock on .I was pretty sure it was the load cell thing which i reckon s crap anyway .

Ive rigged the pedals to my PC to test them with the software fanatec supply and problem is on there aswell .

So my question is have you guys done that to test and then been able to fix the problem by starting wheel after forza is running ?

I tried swapping the clutch and brake on the Circuit board to test but got no function so that was no good .

Im at a loss .

My brake pedal had similar symptoms to yours. It gradually got worse and worse to the point where the in game telemetry was reading full brake application (stuck on) after one press of the pedal. I replaced the load cell and all good. I picked one up for 50(!) bucks from the Gamesmen, Google them.

Yeah im fairly sure load cell replacement is required for me too .

I actually dont even like the load cell thing anyway ... never did right from the start .$250 odd for these pedals with a stupid tech that doesnt last long (comman thing i hear ) . Im gonna purchase the standard CSR pedals and swap the brake and be done with it as it doesnt work out much more than replacing the load cell . That way i got a load of spares like springs and that to go with it and the standard brake that i prefer also .