MY ELITE SETUP. NOT SO ELITE :P

TV looks a good size to me

wicked set-up man... kill to have one like it

Love that wheel D3FCTV, and the rig is solid as well.
The wiring could use some tidying up tho.

How about some info on how the wheel works.
The control layout looks much more like a controller. What functions are available on the buttons and joystick when you're playing FM4?

Cheers. The setup is pretty sweet but always looking to perfect it. ...wiring is such a biatch!

As for the wheel setup itself, it's an animal of a machine! The button layout is similar to the controller visually - Y,X,A,B buttons on the right hand side with the stick on the left which actually acts as the directional pad. Back and start buttons in the centre with LSB & RSB on either side. Those are the thumbstick buttons if clicked in on a controller.

The button layout is practically the same as what it is on the controller. Though I use B for handbrake instead of A. Hydrolic handbrake is in need as pushing a button sucks! Sadly you can't just apply any setting to a certain button. Similar to the controller layout - you can swap, e.g. Clutch for Handbrake etc.

The wheel also allows you to tune specific settings within it via a little 'tuning' button next to the 'start' button. You can have upto 5 settings.

Settings include:
Sen (Degrees)
FF (Force Feedback)
Sho (Shock Vibration) (Not Sure what this does)
Dri (Drift Mode) (Adjusts the damper allowing for smoother steering)

Abs (Abs/Lock up Vibration) (Push the brakes to a certain point and the steering wheel will vibrate. This is great for judging when your about to lock up)

Lin (Lineraty)
Dea (Deadzone)
Spr (Spring Back) (Spring strenght of wheel returning to centre)
Dpr (Damper)
ACL (Auto Clutch) (Mainly for flappy paddle gearboxes)

Currently I am running 3 setting for Forza:
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ROAD CARS (S_1)
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Sen - 900
FF - 100
Sho - 100
Dri - 0
Abs - 100
Lin - 0
Dea - 0
Spr - 0
Dpr - 0
ACL - Off/On, depending on cars gearbox type. I Try to keep things as realistic as possible. This feature basically allows you to run the 'manual w/clutch' setting within forza but automatically presses the clutch on the elite. Mainly for the flappy paddle cars...

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DRIFT CARS (S_2)
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Sen - 720
FF - 10
Sho - 0
Dri - 5
Abs - 0
Lin - 0
Dea - 0
Spr - -3
Dpr - 0
ACL - Off

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RACE CARS (S_3)
-----------
Sen - 540
FF - 100
Sho - 100
Dri - 0
Abs - 100
Lin - 0
Dea - 0
Spr - -2
Dpr - 0
ACL - Off/On

MY IN GAME SETTINGS FOR THE WHEEL ARE AS FOLLOWS:
Steering dzone in: 0
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Steering dzone out: 82
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Accel dzone in: 0
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Accel dzone out: 100
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Decel dzone in: 0
--------------------------
Decel dzone out: 100
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Clutch dzone in: 0
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Clutch dzone out: 100
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Handbrake dzone in: 10
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Handbrake dzone out: 100
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Vibration scale: 100
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FFB Scale: 100

As for the pedal setup. I find it great but would like to inverse the whole thing. I also think they've done a great job on simulating a brake pedal with adjustable sensitivity on the actual pedal itself. The accelerator still feels to loose but easy to get used to. The clutch is almost perfect. Everything is adjustable as well. Take off a few screws and move the pedals closer to one another or adjust how much leverage they have. It really is built for anyone.

The gearbox feels great but could be more realistic by just having the gears that little bit more spaced apart. Rarely I find myself in the heat of racing and smashing it down into first when I wanted to go into third. This is easily solved by getting used to where each gear goes like a real car ..I have both H-Pattern and Sequential shifters setup side by side, for particular cars of course.

....that's all I've got, for now! lol

Thanks for that mate.

I like the ACL button, more realistic for paddle shift cars. As you said.
And useful for race nights so as not to wreck gearboxes in the heat of battle.

Let me know if you get bored with it and want to lend it out to someone.
Otherwise I'll be content with my GT2.

Hey mate. Your set up looks great, and I don't know what you mean by saying TV is too big as looks like a PERFECT size to me.

Now, if I am not mistaken, you got the Obutto rig and I am looking at getting one soon.

They say that the monitor stand it for 24" tv/monitor. How did you go about mounting this monster of TV to the rig?

The triple monitor stand on the Obutto is good for 3 x 24 inch monitors. If you are mounting a single screen you should be fine for a significantly larger screen..

You do end up sitting reasonably close to the screen though, so you really don't need something massive...

No worries iWolf ahahahaha ...I was going to purchase the GT2, had been saving for a while until they announced the Elite and I kept saving and waiting, worth it
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Russian_Bloke - thanks dude, come to think of it ...the TV is perfect, possibly because I've gotten used to it. However, the problem with it being so big, the steering wheel cannot be lowered anymore then where you see it positioned now. So it doesn't work to well for very short people or people who enjoy the wheel at a lower level.

As for mounting this monster of a TV ...there were already pre-drilled holes with inserted threads for another mountin system. The 'Obutto' mounting plate sadly did not sit perfectly over all the pre-drilled holes on the TV. It was either to sit over the top 2 holes or bottom 2 holes.

I made the top 2 holes larger on the Obutto mounting plate as the provided screws were to small for the TV's already drilled holes and locked in the previous TV mounting screws.

The provided 'Obutto' mounting plate screws went around the rest. Holes were drilled into the TV for this which means those provided screws are not locked in solid. Not to worry because the top 2 screws are huge and extremely strong.

The TV is a 40" ...I think. Way over the recommended

HOPE THAT WASN'T TOO MUCH INFO AND EASY TO UNDERSTAND

Thanks for the info D3FCTV. I got a 40" TV as well, so its great to know that it can be mounted without having to weld or something like that... Ill just do exactly what you have done with the screws.